The Cleaning Authority
Products from A - Z


Find The Right Product For The Right Job


The Cleaning Authority uncovers truly an overwhelming aspect to this site. There are so many cleaners on the market -- who can choose the right one for the right project?

But we are going to travel through this galaxy of products and hope we don’t get thrown into a wormhole and taken even farther into the darkness.

So let’s start by talking about the products that I have recommended from the beginning; those products that are in my bucket, and the other ones in my car that get used occasionally.

  As The Cleaning Authority,I am a firm believer in keeping it simple. The basics that I have put into my bucket, are just that--basics. You can expand or contract on these Cleaning Products as needed.

Remember here is how you use this list. Look for what you'd like to clean then read about the products that i recommend for you.

Here's an example of how this works.

Say you would like to clean your silver. look up silver under S and there you will find products that I've used over the years and believe to be the best product for the job.


The Cleaning Authority bucket:


Micro Cloths:

Good for absolutely everything. From Dusting to washing the windows and even to scrub the floors, when its necessary to get down on your knees and get them really clean. These towels are a must for every cleaning job you have.


Powdered detergents

There are many brands that you might choose, it really doesn’t matter which brand.

The reason you choose powdered detergent is because it is a product filled with enzymes; those little buggers that munch on all kinds of dirt and grease.

What a magical product! Who would have thought that this simple product would have so many uses especially in the kitchen and the bathroom. It is The Cleaning Authority favorite.


Tilex Mildew:

This is one of the chemical based Cleaning products that everyone needs.

They are not fun to have around, especially if you have children so keep this one out of their reach.

The product does exactly as it says; it takes care of mildew. After you have cleaned your bath, you spray this wherever you see little black dots, or signs of mildew and let it stand until it is dry - do not rinse it off.

It needs to stay on in order to do its job. Which of course is removing the mildew and turning your grout and caulking back to the white you like to see. Wear gloves if you need them and make sure the bath is ventilated.

Also The Cleaning Authority recommends that you keep the spray away from any of your chrome as it will damage those pieces. Just be careful, and it will work.


Window cleaner

Once again, there are many brands to choose from so simply pick your favorite as they all work the same. Alternatively you may want to make your own.

To do that start with a new plastic bottle with a sprayer on it – the smaller the better.

Run the hot water, fill the bottle, add five to six drops of liquid detergent, tighten the sprayer and you’re ready to clean your windows.

Here's a great tip from The Cleaning Authority.

This is what a professional window washer that I know uses. Why do we use the liquid detergent? Because it cuts through the grease that has attached itself to the windows.


Bio Green Clean:

A must have, says The Cleaning Authority.

a truly great product. it's entirely green. what does that mean, it means that it's a plant based product that comes from the earth. it's filled with all of those enzymes required to clean everything.

 It cannot hurt you or anything it touches. this makes it one of the best products on the market place. from spots and spills, to mold in the bath this one takes care of it all.


Lysol cleaner

This is a disinfectant every house needs to help keep the germs away.

It’s relatively inexpensive and I have found it to be one of the best on the market. This is what you should use to clean your door knobs, your kitchen pulls and handles, telephones, keyboards and clickers for your media.

We can’t all have our hands in water all day as I do, but try to wash your hands as often as possible - it keeps away some pretty nasty germs. one of the great Cleaning Products.


Mrs. Meyers

What a great product for the shower! It’s totally natural and fresh smelling and has lots of lemon oil. After

you are done showering simply spray the walls and doors, and your good to go.

Of course you should have cleaned the shower before using this product. I have found that spraying the walls and floor, then going over this with a scrubbing sponge and some liquid detergent, will take all soap scum off the walls and doors and floor.

When done, use this product to keep the shower in check.

The Cleaning Authority recommends this for any hard surfaces. Rinse and dry after using this on any other surface than the shower or you may get streaks.


Squeegee

There are many Cleaning Products that you can do without, don'tt make this one of them.

there are many versions of this product however stick to the one that works the best. Brass. The squeegee lasts almost forever and you can change out the rubber when it needs to be replaced.

If you have lots of windows of varying sizes then you may want to purchase several sizes from small to large.

As The Cleaning Authority I have most of them. Believe me when I say you can be done in fast order with one of these, and your windows or mirrors will sparkle


Scrubbing brushes

Once again there are many sizes and shapes of scrubbing brushes.

They can do a lot of jobs for us from scrubbing your finger nails to sweeping out the garage and everything in between.

I use them for cleaning around the house, a brush that would be used for scrubbing dishes. can be used for most jobs in the house and can be replaced very inexpensively.

But don’t be afraid to use brushes; they can get into the smallest of places and clean them right up.

Any time you have a job that seems very hard to get at, think of a brush.

There are brushes for under the refrigerator, behind the washer and dryer, and even for the walls.

Think of any use and there is a brush waiting to be found.

As The Cleaning Authority i use them all. So don’t be afraid to experiment - it can save you a lot of cleaning time in your home.


Plastic Cup

I use one for rinsing down the shower and tub walls. I'm sure you'll find many uses for one.



The mop

Any good hand wringing mop will do. Keep it simple and keep it inexpensive So there we are, the bucket.


Vacuum

Now let’s turn our attention to the vacuum. Of course you already know what I’m going to say; keep it simple, don’t go crazy.

Because I vacuum a lot I need something that is a workhorse whereas you will vacuum only when needed.

Find something that is mid-priced, or if you have money to burn, go out and buy the most expensive brand on the market.

Just make sure it has attachments and doesn’t weigh as much as a truck. If you can’t pick it up it won’t do you much good.

Mine weighs about eight pounds and is used in most hotels; it’s called the Orek.

Use all or some of these products.  As The Cleaning Authority, I like to mix it up and try new ways of using them all. 


As The Cleaning Authority,

These are the articles in my bucket. After thirty years believe me I’ve got it down to a precise science . it seems like a lot of things but they will last a long time and all you will have to do is replace them when necessary.

Of course there are many other cleaning products to choose from; products for silver, copper, crystal, acrylic and so forth. We will list them in another chapter and explain what to expect from each of them and many more.

So this is the beginning. Let there be light --just kidding--but not really. turn on the lights as you can’t see the dirt without them.

Remember here is how you use this list. Look for what you'd like to clean then read about the products that i recommend for you. here's an example of how this works. Say you would like to clean your silver.

look up silver under S and there you will find products that I've used over the years and believe to be the best product for the job.



PRODUCTS LIST A - z


The Cleaning Authority:

- A -

Acrylic:

Novice #1 is for cleaning

#2 removes fine scratches

#3 removes heavy scratches, after using #3 finish by using #2.

Brilliance:

This is a one stop cleaner for plastics, aircraft, boats, mirrors, show-cases, sneeze guards, television screens, chandelier crystals, fiberglass, refrigerators, glazed ceramic, polished granite, medical and dental equipment


The Cleaning Authority:

ANTS;

the most important bit of information to remember when it comes to ants is, keep the area clean. Wherever you find the ants wash down the area with soap and water to remove the trace they leave behind as they move about.

You can always use ant traps, or just wipe down your kitchen and pantry with a mixture of vinegar and water.

The ants will be repelled. If your infestation is out of control, you may want a professional to come in and spray for you and bait the area.

Another good idea is to put bay leaves in the areas where you find ants, like drawers. They also do not like the smell of the leaves.-


The Cleaning Authority:

B -

Blinds:

There are three ways of cleaning blinds that depends on the kind of blinds you have.

1. There are mini and vertical blinds and also venetian blinds. Get your gloves out and fill a bucket with warm water, a squirt of liquid soap, and a dash of bleach.

Add your micro cloth, wring it out, and starting on the top corner, wipe each slat on both sides at once.

Work your way to the bottom of the blind, then go to the next section from the top down.

Change your micro cloth out by rinsing in the bucket several times if need be. Continue until you have worked your way across the entire blind.

2. Verticals are done the same way from top to bottom, and side to side, by wiping the entire length of the vertical on both sides at once.

3. Ultrasonic cleaning : if you want to send your blinds out to be cleaned, this is the method that works the best.

This process will remove all dirt from the blinds and they will be returned to you like new.


The Cleaning Authority:

BLOOD:

blood stains are the worst to get out, but they can come out. Equal parts of water and ammonia will do it. Just put it on a sponge and wring it out over the blood, let it sit for a moment , then take a dry towel and blot it up. You may need to do this more than once to remove all of the blood.

If you have blood on your clothes, take a wet sponge add some hydrogen peroxide and wring the sponge out over the spot, then blot it out with a dry towel. A good wash after should complete the job.


The Cleaning Authority:

Brass:

Brasso is a very good product for your brass. Just pour some onto a rag and start wiping your brass, scrubbing a little harder on spots that have discolored will remove them. Let the product dry, then wipe off with a clean dry rag. Learn more here about Brass Cleaners.

Wenol:

  is a high-end cleaner for your brass. I found it in a brass store in Chicago years ago. I watched as the store owner went from piece to piece cleaning the brass. It comes in the form of a paste that you rub on, let dry and wipe off. The brass will shine like glass when you are done. This metal polish can be purchased on-line.


The Cleaning Authority:

Brick:

Tri-sodium phosphate is a great cleaner for brick. Wear gloves when using this product. Mix as directed, scrub your bricks, then rinse with clear water.

Copperfield:  is a company in Iowa that supplies to the trades. Their masonry cleaner is the best. I’m adding this to the mix because you may need to call a professional to your job. Make sure they use this product.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Bronze:

Okay, get ready to be blown away. The only thing you need to clean bronze pieces, including outside statuary, is plain old ivory soap and some water.

You may need a toothbrush to get into crevices, but that’s it. Wash it down by filling a bucket with warm water, add some ivory and wash the piece down.

Rinse off all the soap, let it dry for a couple of hours, then use some tree wax to protect your piece, or just buy some clear Johnson’s paste wax and apply it to your piece. Buff if you must.

In between cleaning just use a damp rag that has been rung out so dry, that if you shook it, dust would fly.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- C -

Carpets:

If you’re taking out a spot or a spill take a towel, put it over the spot or spill and step on it to wick out the liquid.

Then take a brush and dip into the soap and water mixture and rub lightly onto the spot or spill.

Take another towel, and wick out the liquid to see if the spot or spill has been removed. If not move onto the next step.

Mix some powdered laundry detergent in warm water. Repeat the actions as above.

If this does not work, go onto the heavy artillery. I like to use Woolite carpet spray. It’s worked for me for years. Just spray, work it into the spot or spill, let it stand until you are ready to vacuum then go over it with the vacuum - it should pull up the nap and the spot or spill should be gone.

Bio-green clean:  This is something new I have been using and it’s great.

I used it on some spots the other day, and they came right out. Just spray, use a brush, and wick with a towel.

The spot or spill should be gone with all those little enzymes working there magic for you.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Cement:

This section is here because many countertops are now made from cement. Cleaning them is an easy process.

Just use warm water and soap. Rinse them down with warm water and dry.

If you need to reseal and polish follow your installer’s directions. This usually means removing all stains, and applying your sealer and then polishing once everything has dried.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Ceramic tile:

Of course if this is a floor, vacuum it first, or sweep it clean. In a bucket of warm water add some powdered detergent and dissolve it.

Using a micro cloth dunk it into the bucket, ring it out and start wiping down the floor. Of course you will work your way out of the room you are cleaning. 

Vinegar:

Fill a bucket with warm water and add a cup of vinegar, then using the process above wipe down your tiles. If your tiles are on a wall start at the top and work your way down.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Copper:

 Twinkle is what I’ve used for years because it’s simple and easy to use. Simply wipe it on, rinse it off and dry - what could be easier? If you want to make your own home remedy use salt, white vinegar, and flour. Just mix it into a paste and rub it over the copper. Let it stand for ten minutes to an hour, then rinse and dry thoroughly.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Corian:

Use warm soapy water to clean, then rinse and dry. Do not use window cleaners on these surfaces. If you want to disinfect use one part water and one part bleach, then rinse and dry.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Crystal:

Fill a large plastic bowl with warm water and some liquid soap. Add a micro cloth to this liquid. Put a towel in the bottom of the sink, just in case you drop a piece.

This will help to stop breakage. Take a towel and put it down on the counter top. Take a piece of crystal and rinse it off.

Using your micro cloth wash each piece, then rinse it clean of any soap and place it on the towel to dry. After the towel on the counter top has been filled, you will need a lint free towel to dry your pieces off.

Return them to their rightful places. I’ve learned over the years that crystal gets brittle, and needs to be placed in water to stop that process . Of course, that’s just an old wives tale, but a couple of times a Year in and out of the sink is a good idea The Cleaning Authority has more cleaning tips here.


- D -

Dishwasher:

Most people forget that the inside of their dishwasher needs to be attended to once in a while. There is a filtering system in the bottom of the unit.

It’s there to catch the excess food that drops away while cleaning. That’s why we rinse out dishes before putting them into the unit. Just take a micro cloth, and go over the filter, and pull out any particles that may have remained.

Lime-away

If you have hard water and rust has developed in the unit, then pour in a half a bottle and run the unit twice.

I find that when that is finished all rust should have been removed; if not repeat the process. When that is done put in a cup of bleach and run it several times again.This should solve your problem.


Disposal:

You might think that this unit does not need to be cleaned, but you would be wrong.

The build up of odors from your disposal can radiate into your home and make it very unpleasant for you. Here’s a formula I’ve used for a very long time.

Take your sink stopper and place it into the sink, then fill the sink with water almost to the top. Add about a quarter of a cup dish washing liquid, along with the same amount of baking soda.

Pull the plug, turn on the unit and let the water and detergents run through till the end. Then turn off the unit.

Add several cut up lemons into the unit, add the stopper to the sink, and fill to the top again. Remove the stopper and turn the unit on and run until it runs smooth.

This should take care of all of the odors. Of course always use cold water in your disposal. We do this because if there are any bits of grease in the unit, it will carry them away.

Here’s another little tip: every once in a while dump an ice cube tray into the sink and turn on the cold water.

It will help to dislodge pieces of food that were not removed the first go around. It will also help to keep your blades sharp.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

E

- Enamel:

Enamel can scratch very easily, so don’t use anything abrasive on the surface. Wipe down with warm soapy water.

If the enamel piece is your stove top and there are bits stuck to the top, fill a pot with water, bring it to the boil, then use that water to soften whatever has hardened onto the surface, then wipe it away.

This goes for under the top too. Remember, nothing abrasive. Another little tip: you can dissolve some powdered detergent in warm water, then use this to wipe down the stove top. Rinse it clean, and dry.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

F -

Formica:

Formica is a plastic laminate. It’s very easy to keep clean. Use warm soapy water. If you have a stain on the surface, use some baking soda and water, make it into a paste and add to the stain.Let it stand for a few minutes, then wash off.

Gel coat:

You can get this at a hardware store. It will restore your surface by hiding scratches and adding a shine back into the laminate.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Fruit fly:

the fruit fly comes into the home in august when all of the fruit has ripened and contains the most sugar. They will not bite.

You can get rid of them very easily, by taking a jar, adding some cider vinegar and placing a paper cone into the opening.

The flies will be attracted to the cider and climb in, but will not be able to get back out. Just flush them away and your done.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- G -

Granite:

The easiest cleaner for your granite is warm soapy water followed by a clean water rinse. There are plenty of cleaners with chemicals in them, but I would stay away from them because of food preparation.

Remember keep it simple. Every year or two reseal your counters by a professional, and you should be just fine. You can stay away from stains by using a trivet for your foods.

Here’s a great tip to pass on to your friends: for hard to remove marker pens, use some acetone on a rag to remove the stain.

If you find yourself with a wine stain that will not come out, make a paste from a cup of molding plaster and bleach, mix till it’s a paste then put on the stain and let it sit for about one half hour.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Gold:

Put boiling water and some liquid detergent into a small container. Add your gold product and any dirt or grime will be removed almost instantly. If you need to use a toothbrush for nooks and crannies go ahead, it won’t hurt anything.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Grease:

Enzymes in the form of powdered detergents are number one for this job. Take hot water, add some powdered detergent and dissolve it and take a wet rag and wipe the grease off. Rinse with hot water and dry.

If the grease is hard, put some detergent on the grease, add a rag completely wet with hot water and let it sit on the spot for about a half hour to soften the grease spot. Rinse your rag out and wipe down the spot and dry.

You may also use a non abrasive powder like baking soda to help remove the grease. The same process applies: hot water, soda, hot water to rinse, then dry.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- L -

Leather:

Finished leather can be cleaned by taking a mild soap like ivory or dove and working it into a lather. With a clean damp towel wipe off the lather, then polish with a dry towel. Add a conditioner at the end. Leather honey is the best conditioner I‘ve found

Unfinished leather: Use saddle soap. Work it into a lather, then wipe it off. Let it air dry, then use mink oil to condition. 


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Limestone:

Because limestone is so porous and soft, you will need a penetrating sealer to help solve your cleaning. Stone technologies corporation has one of the best on the market. All sizes are available.

Stone soap ultra:  Stone soap ultra is a ph controlled product made for stone. This is not a spray and wipe cleaner.

You dilute this in water and wash your floor. It will not leave a residue. Remember keep all citrus products away from your limestone.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- M -

Marble:

Stone soap ultra from stone technologies corporation is once again the best cleaner for your marble, and all other stone products .Sealer no. 2 is the sealer you will need for your marble.


Mice:

of course the first thing we think to do is to buy mice traps and set them around the house., if you see a mouse, measure a ten foot distance from where you saw it and that will probably be where they are nesting.

By setting traps with some peaqnut butter and distributing them around the area you should be able to get rid of them. You can also buy bait containers  and place them around the area. Both will work very good.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Microwaves:

Fill a bowl with water and the juice of one lemon. Put into the microwave and turn on high for two to three minutes until steaming occurs, then let it sit for another two to three minutes to penetrate anything left baked on.

Open the door and wipe down the inside. The lemon will make it smell great. If it needs to be repeated because some of the baked on mess did not come off, then do it now, repeat and wipe as before.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Moldings:

1.  I find using a paint brush, works just fine. It will get into all of the crevices, like the dental.

2. You can also use a bucket with warm water and some liquid soap. Add your micro cloth, wring it out and wipe down the moldings. You can dry with a soft towel if needed.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- O -

Onyx:

1. Stone soap ultra is once again the cleaner you want, because of the low ph levels and there are no abrasives in this product

2. Warm soapy water, with a very soft rag will do just fine. Keep the soap down to a minimum. Chances are your onyx is sealed. So cleaning this way will not hurt them at all. Wipe down with a soft towel.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Oven:

1. Use Easy-off  to clean your oven. The great thing with this product is it is almost totally fume free. Take out your racks, spray the inside of the oven, and wait a few hours, or better wait overnight.

Put the racks on some newspapers, spray and wait overnight. Here’s a little tip: If you have a self cleaning oven there is a cleaner from easy-off specifically for you. But remember when cleaning your self cleaning oven, take out the racks or they may burn off their shine.

2. In a bucket put in hot water and some powdered detergent, dissolve the powder and add your sponge with scratch pad - use gloves if you want.

Wipe down the inside of the oven with the scratch side of the sponge. Once everything has been wiped down, rinse it down with clear water.

Now look to spots that have hardened. Either repeat the spray, or use your razor blade scraper to remove the spots remaining in the oven.

Rinse when through. It should look like new. Now take the racks to the sink and wipe them down with the sponge and some hot water.

If you still have spots that did not remove themselves, use an s.o.s. soap pad to help them disappear. You can get s.o.s. at any grocery store 

Bio-green clean Follow directions on the bottle. Spray the oven and racks, using a 3-1 ratio. All of those little enzymes will start munching at your oven and racks, and soon it will look like new.

Wipe down with hot water and your sponge with scratch pad attached. If you still have some hardened on spots, take your razor blade scraper and use it to remove them. I’ve found this alternative to chemicals is simply the best.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- P -

Pet stains:

Bio-green clean is my all time favorite way to remove pet stains, and odors. It’s a miracle worker on the planet and filled with enzymes that munch their way right through your stains and leave them odor free.

Just follow the easy directions on the bottle, and all of your worries will soon be gone. If you find that you want to try something else, 


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Porcelain:

1. Lysol disinfectant liquid is what I use on all porcelain tiles. Just add liquid to a bucket of warm water, add your micro cloth, and start washing your floor.

If you run into spots, take some scouring powder and add some water to turn it into a slurry. Using a stiff brush, scrub over the spots until gone. Rinse well, and wipe dry with a towel.

2. There are any number of spill and spots that sometimes need to be removed. Because each one needs a different cleaning process

3. Remember porcelain enamel appliances and fixtures are recyclable call: 1-800-937-1226.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- R -

Refrigerator:

1. Put on your gloves; you’ll need them for this job. Fill a bucket with hot water, add one or two cups of bleach.

I usually remove one shelf at a time. Remove all items from the shelf then remove the shelf. Put it in the sink with a bucket of hot water and bleach. Run the hot water in the sink, dip into the bucket with bleach and start wiping down the shelf.

The bleach will remove all of the spills and disinfect the surface at the same time. Once cleaned of all spills, rinse and dry the shelf, and before returning to the refrigerator wipe down the walls, down to the next shelf.

Return the shelf to the fridge. Wipe all items that you return to the fridge. That means run under water and then wipe them clean.

Repeat this all the way to the bottom of the fridge where the drawers are located. Remove the drawers and the products in them. Wash them in the sink with the bleach mixture and rinse when done.

Once the box has been cleaned, it’s time for the door shelves to be cleaned. Remove them one by one, removing all of the items from each shelf.

Wash them down with the bleach mixture and then rinse. Wipe down the door panel down to the next shelf. Then return the items to the shelves making sure to rinse each one off and dry them before returning them to the shelf.

2. The freezer: the same process applies here as before. Fill a bucket with hot water and bleach. Remove each shelf, one at a time, wash the shelves in the sink, rinse, then wipe off freezer walls down to the next shelf.

Return items to the freezer. If you have one box on top of the fridge, remove everything from the box. Take hot water and bleach and wipe out the box.

If there are stains, use more hot water and some bleach on a rag and wipe until gone. Return all items to the freezer.

Of course this is a great time to get rid of things that we no longer need or want like expired items. Be sure when you are done to wipe down the outside of the refrigerator.

That means the whole thing: front, sides, and back. Roll it out to get to the back. Clean the walls around the refrigerator, as well as the floor beneath. Roll the fridge back into place, and enjoy your clean fridge.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Roaches:

they’ve survived nuclear blasts, what makes us think we can get rid of them. However we can make a real good run at them, by setting down sticky sheets, that will trap them so they cannot move.

Baiting them is probably the best. Find a good exterminator and ask them to mix up a batch of bait, that will harden like candy.

You can take the mixture and have it placed under the counter at baseboard level under sinks, etc. once it has hardened, they will lick it ingest it into themselves and take it back to their nests.

It will kill all of the babies and anything thing else that wants to lick it. I used this treatment once in an apartment building that I owned, and they were gone within a week.

Remember feeding them is best. If you are infested to large numbers, you may want to bomb the place.

Open your cabinets place some paper on a chair place the bomb on top close all of the windows. Pull the tab on the top, leave the house for a few hours and when you return open all of the windows to air the house out for a few more hours.

This can be messy, and requires that you absolutely wash everything down afterwards. 


Rust:

Rust off is the best product I’ve ever seen. Simply spray and watch the rust disappear.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

- S -

Shades:

You will remember from when you were a kid.

1. Take a spray bottle and fill with warm water, add a couple drops of ivory liquid soap and shake the bottle.

Pull the shade down to the bottom and spray with the liquid soap. Wipe down with a micro cloth and dry with a clean dry towel.

If you have some heavy marks on them take some baking soda with a damp rag and wipe over the area until the spot is gone. Rinse with clear water, and dry.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Silver:

1. Baking soda is a great cleaner. I’ve used it on my silver for years. It’s non abrasive and brings the shine right back to your pieces.

Just pour some Arm and Hammer in a bowl, take a micro cloth, get it wet with hot water, dip into the baking soda and start rubbing your silver - it will clean very fast. If there are intricate sections, use a soft toothbrush and rub vigorously, and rinse. Dry with a clean towel.

It’s great on all of your silver, but silver chains need to be put into a bowl lined with aluminum foil. Add your chains, cover with baking soda, and pour boiling water over them and use a spoon or brush to move them around in the mixture.

Remove them and rinse them off and dry them. If they are really bad you may need to repeat this process several times.



The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Silverfish:

silverfish are insects that do not bite, but they will eat paper crumbs on the floor etc. if you are infested take some cloves and place them around the areas that you see them, they will go away permanently because they do not like the smell.. You can help yourself by keeping the area free of food and water.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Stainless:

1. There are any number of stainless sprays to clean your appliances, however once again simple is the aim here.

2. First wipe down the appliance with a warm soapy solution to remove all attached material to the stainless. Then add a few drops of baby oil--that’s right baby oil-- to a paper towel.

Rub the stainless clean off all marks. Then with a dry paper towel remove the excess until dry and shiny.

3. If your stainless has marks or spots that need to be removed, then use a mixture of baking soda and a lemon or a lime.

Cut the lemon or lime in half and dip into the baking soda, then rub in circles over the surface until spots have been removed. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a clean towel.

4. Here’s a couple of tips that I’ve used over the years for stainless. You can use window cleaner for your refrigerator stainless.

It removes the finger prints and shines all at once. For the sink, I’ve used just a regular bar of soap. Take a micro cloth, rub the soap over the wet towel to get it up to a good lather, then rub the stainless with the towel until you feel that the entire sink has a smooth surface. Rinse and dry.

Your sink should look new. Add some of the baby oil to a towel and rub over the sink for a great shine. Dry thoroughly when complete. I’ll bet you can see yourself through the shine.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

-Tar:

There is an all natural product made from citrus that removes all tar in one easy process. Just spray and rinse off with clear water.

Mix according to directions  Here’s a helpful hint I learned as a young boy on the farm. Put some gasoline on a rag and wipe off the tar. How easy could that be. Rinse with warm soapy water and dry.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Tin:

Keeping it free from dust and stains is a must. Use warm soapy water to wipe it free from dust and stains. Dry with a clean towel.

If you have rust anywhere just sprinkle some Bar Keepers Friend  on the spot and add a wet rag and scrub until the rust is gone. Then rinse and dry. Use any metal polish like Brasso to finish


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

W-X-Y-Z

Wallpaper:

1. Brush down your walls, to remove any dust, or cobwebs etc.2. Fill a bucket with warm water and add about one squirt of liquid detergent.

Agitate the water to get the bubbles started and add your sponge. Start by placing towels at the bottom of the wall to catch any drips or spills. Next take your sponge and wring it out, and start at the top of the wall, working your way to the bottom.

This should be enough to dry the wall, but sometimes you’ll need a towel to go over it. Move onto the next section, and work your way around the room until done.

Wallpaper in bath and kitchen: generally wallpaper in both of these rooms are coated with vinyl, and can take water along with solutions in small amounts.

Because the bath may have some mold spots, you can use a solution of warm water and a small amount of bleach. This will remove the mold and disinfect at the same time.

In the kitchen, it’s best to use our trusty stand by, a powdered detergent, to let our friends the enzymes munch their way through any grease that may have attached itself to the walls.


Walls:

1. Start by dusting your walls. If you don’t have a wall duster, then use a fox-tail brush. If that doesn’t work for you, get out your vacuum, attach the brush to the hose, and vacuum down your walls, top to bottom.

2. Get two buckets. Fill one with about a gallon of warm water. Fill the other one about three quarters full.

In bucket number one, add a cup of vinegar, a cup of ammonia, and a quarter cup of baking soda. Put on your gloves and add a sponge to each bucket.

Wash your walls in sections from bottom to top. Put towels at the wall baseboards and start washing your walls. After each section rinse then move onto the next section.

Continue around the room until you have finished. Be sure to wash the baseboards and trim around the room, this includes the doors. If there are marks on the walls, like crayon, use a blow dryer and melt the wax and wipe it off with a damp rag.

If you have marks from shoes or luggage use some toothpaste on a rag and scrub them clean. Rinse when finished, and move onto the next room.


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Washer and dryer:

Yes they need to be cleaned.

1. Fill a bucket with warm water and some liquid detergent. Take your micro cloth and wipe down the outsides of both machines.

2. Remove the lint basket from the dryer. Take your vacuum cleaner and add the piece with the small hole in the end and vacuum the lint basket container out. Pull as much of the lint free from the inside as possible.

It’s important at least once a year to have the dryer hose professionally cleaned out. If it’s plugged, it can cause a fire. Also vacuum the back of the dryer and underneath if possible.

3. If you have an agitator in the machine you need to remove the top piece and clean out the build up of gunk from liquid detergent that accumulates in this piece. Usually hot water and a very fine brush will dislodge any build up in this piece.

Over time if this is not done your machine will be working twice as hard to clean your clothes. I know the new washers do not have any agitators in them, so there is no need for those with these newer machines to have to go through this process


The Cleaning Authority Picks:

Windows:

1. Fill a spray bottle with warm water and add about five drops of liquid detergent.

2. Spray your window and then use a soft brush to scrub it clean. Remove the spray with a squeegee and wipe the edges with a dry cloth.


Wrought iron:

Take a dry towel and wipe clean. If you have rust spots, use some steel wool and a couple drops of turpentine to remove the rust. You can apply a coat of wax to help keep the rust from coming back.


Wood:

Some Murphy’s flax-soap  in a bucket of warm water works just fine on finished wood. Pledge will work and leave the surface like glass.

 Antique and fine woods: 

You need to be very careful here, and not go crazy. Harrell’s  is a wax used for the finest of wood furniture. Use a very soft rag, a t-shirt, or better yet a baby blanket.

Apply the wax and work it in to the wood. Let it stand for awhile then use another baby blanket to polish it to a shine.

As The Cleaning Authority, I've been using this method for many years now and can tell you that by using a baby blanket on your fine furniture pieces is the only way to go.

 If you have high-end antiques you will probably have a professional come in and polish and wax your furniture every six months.

Every professional has his or her own mixtures that they use. Be sure to ask what they are using to finish your furniture. I used to work with someone who used a French method to polish the woods and leathers.

This was accomplished by using the ash from Mount St. Helen’s along with his own liquid infusion. I’ve seen leather, that when finished, you could see your face absolutely clear.

Dusting antique wood should be done with baby blankets only as this ensures the finish will remain on the wood.

Beeswax   is one of the standard waxes for all types of wood furniture. It comes several forms and is used by rubbing into your wood with the grain. Over time your wood will feel like silk. I’ve used it for years.


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